No matter what Club used -- Driver or Putter or somewhere in-between -- the Stroke is always executed Down Plane to Low Point (1-L #13). When Left Wrist Velocity Power (6-B-2-0) is employed, that also means to Full Extension (Left Wrist Uncocked per 2-P).
The only variable, then, is Ball Position (12-3 #2 and Chapter 14 / Second Programming Routine).
All Strokes must comply with the essential geometry of the Stroke (Masters Execution / 3-F-6 per 5-0). Or, incorporate a Compensation.
No matter what Club used -- Driver or Putter or somewhere in-between -- the Stroke is always executed Down Plane to Low Point (1-L #13). When Left Wrist Velocity Power (6-B-2-0) is employed, that also means to Full Extension (Left Wrist Uncocked per 2-P).
The only variable, then, is Ball Position (12-3 #2 and Chapter 14 / Second Programming Routine).
All Strokes must comply with the essential geometry of the Stroke (Masters Execution / 3-F-6 per 5-0). Or, incorporate a Compensation.
Now it feels like home again!
Thank You,
Kevin
__________________
I could be wrong. I have been before, and will be again.
Hmmm so even if you tee a ball forward of low point you must hit all the way Down and Out before the club eventually goes Up and In, post low point to hit the ball. The Down and Out bit being lost on most folks who simply try to hit Up..........and disrupt the clubhead orbit in the process. Im going to the dome today to try that out.
When I started to play decent as a junior, I teed the ball low, took it inside and up and smashed down on it, at times taking a divot. I could really drive it well for a 135 pound weakling. Then a well meaning playing partner insisted I needed to tee it higher and take it straight back. I recently read a great article about Sam Snead who used a 2 wood for a driver and hit down on the ball, often taking a divot. Modern drivers tend to discourage this motion due to the weighting and size. I think Kevin has identified a valid way to swing, assuming the club's design helps. If you have a sole weighted 460 cc driver, it might be tough go.
When I started to play decent as a junior, I teed the ball low, took it inside and up and smashed down on it, at times taking a divot. I could really drive it well for a 135 pound weakling. Then a well meaning playing partner insisted I needed to tee it higher and take it straight back. I recently read a great article about Sam Snead who used a 2 wood for a driver and hit down on the ball, often taking a divot. Modern drivers tend to discourage this motion due to the weighting and size. I think Kevin has identified a valid way to swing, assuming the club's design helps. If you have a sole weighted 460 cc driver, it might be tough go.
Great point Dodger. Equipment has changed so much during our lifetimes that the game has changed drastically! Remember when we thought a 300 drive was super human? Now its 400!
Kevin
__________________
I could be wrong. I have been before, and will be again.
Snead didn't take divots with a teed up driver. I've seen him hit too many teed up shots without ever taking a divot. He did hit the driver off the deck quite a bit and I don't think *trying* to take a divot with a fairway wood or even a driver off the deck is a bad way to go about it.
You can hit today's drivers off the deck if you're pretty precise. I have a Cleveland Hi-Bore XLS 10.5* with a low kick point that I can hit pretty well as long as it's not a downhill lie. I think it's one of things I've been proud about since I've gotten back into the game, being able to swing it well enough to stripe a modern day driver off the deck on a consistent basis.
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